MK1 4x4 conversion

[sierra3dr]

Well thanks to the thread Taps has posted on his conversion,which I have followed.
I'm hoping to be successful,mainly with the turbo plumbing,meaning the exhaust piping(downpipe and coss-over pipe) and oil filter,having previously installed an extension adaptor,which you might be able to see,left in this picture

Apparently it can be accomodated. This picture also shows the distance from the chassis rail to the cross-member,as I was struggling to grasp why it would not go any higher. As I was calling it a day,tiredness creeping on,my neighbour was weighing up why also. He reckoned that I should raise the engine up. So,as the engine is held up with a crane,I raised it up,and success,it fits nicely. Ok,what a prat I am,but being nackered from work,I fail to see these things big thanks to my neighbour Dennis.
My other dilemma,was the rubber insulator that fits to the mounting arms. The threaded part of the insulator was fouling the turbo manifold which prevented the the holes for the mounting arms to line up on the block. So about 5mm of thread was chopped,which resolved the problem.
And to add,the mounting ams do differ from 2wd to 4wd

And my other issue is the fluid pipes on the steeing rack

As for the bodywork needing to be rearranged. As known,the gearbox tunnel has to be adapted for the 4x4 cross-member. At the time,not realising that MK1 mounting brackets are different to MK2,I have MK2 mounting brackets
NS tunnel

And the OS tunnel

I'm also having to chop and rearrange the bodywork for the front prop

[sierra3dr]

About time I updated this topic.  The progress so far.  The sump tapped for the turbo drain


Opted for a 2,3 crank do that there's more room for the combustion chamber. 

The 2.3 crank has a shorter stroke.The problem I eventually realised,is the 2.3 crank has a smaller diameter for the 2.8 pulley

So far I've tried to make a shaft collar to accomadate the 2.8 pulley

Unfortunately,I didn't make it very well,will make a better one next time. Or use the 2.3 pulley which only has two grooves (3 grooves are required).  As you can see I've added a supplementary groove

The problem I had,was the front crank seal for the 2.8 pulley and 2.8 timing cover set-up,was suited for a 56mm outer diamater with a 42mm bore diameter.  The seal for a 2,3 set-up would require me to change the timing cover to the 2,3 which caters for a 50mm O/D and a 35 I/D.  To avoid swopping timing covers,I purchased a seal 56mm O/D with a 35mm I/D

All the tunnel welding was done a while back

Underside view

My issue was again with the 2.3 crank,was the gearbox input shaft is too large for the spigot,I had to dismantle the box to get the shaft out and have the diamter reduced

Other corrosion dealt with





Problem solved regarding the front prop against the bell housing


More to come

[Taps]

Coming along m8

[sierra3dr]

thanks Rob.  I'm needing to take out the gearbox,as it's not coming out of gear. It could be the Cossie clutch or one of the sync units in the box have dislodged. That can wait,just need to clear the boot out with all sorts of parts and get the dash in.

[sierra3dr]

A bit of an update. Since I've put the 2.3 crank in,I took a physical measurement of the deck height depth when the piston is at TDC,which was 4.5mm. I calculated the static compression ratio being 6.6:1 give or take,which is way too low.
So,I need to install the 2.8 crank back in. The calculation with the 40cc combustion chambers would be as follows:
swept volume+deck height volume+headgasket volume+combustion chamber/deck height volume+headgasket volume+combustion chamber volume
465.61cc+6.79cc+6.93cc+40cc=519.33cc
6.79cc+6.93cc+40cc=53.72
519.33cc/53.72cc=9.67:1 SCR
As we know this is too high for turbo applications. But,whilst digging around on the internet regarding compression ratio calculator,the topic dynamic compression ratio caught my interest.
This calculation is the true compression rating when all valves are closed,so the DCR would be 7.20:1. But,an engine runs better with the DCR between 7.5 to 8.5.
I have asked around about DCR,and the contacts I have,say that engine tuners don't really use DCR. Which means I will be remaining with SCR,but will try DCR at a later stage.
Now that the SCR is 9.67:1,it is prefered that I bring it down. I could purchase Federal Mogul Z520P pistons,but I did measure (unorthodox-ed method) the piston crown thickness being 10mm. With that in mind,I used the dish measurements from the Z520P,and calculated the volume as 13.27cc. Adding this to the above formulae,this would create a SCR 7.95:1 if the headgasket is 1mm when compressed. If compressed to .90mm,the SCR will be 8.02:1. I decided to have a dish cut out on each piston,having search around for a while,and found a company that deals with the public aswell. The engineer did tell me that the piston alone can fit into the machine,which required the conrods to be removed. I had a go at one piston,using boiling water and hammered out the pin. It took me 20 minutes,and I was bloody nackered afterwards. I rang around a few hydraulic engineers to have the rods removed,but said they can only do it,but can't guarantee that the piston will stay intact. I found one company that did remove the rods,as seen here

Next,was the trip off to the engineer shop,and did a fantastic job for £40


Next,I will be connecting the rods to the pistons. I've had a go with one successfully,using a blow torch

[sierra3dr]

Update:-
Pistons now connected to the rods and back in the block,attached to the 2.8 crank. Cylinder heads back on.  Sump and gearbox on,and front drive shafts in

[Taps]

So road test next week then 

[sierra3dr]

So road test next week then 

No today   er not really.  I just need to apply some seam sealant on welded areas,petrol pipe filler as the tank is out.

[sierra3dr]

Just to update a bit,I've had it running,but for short periods.  I now need to resolve why the engine is flooding. I checked volt supply to the WUR,nothing.  For some bizarre reason,the alarm is now working and I can't turn it off,only by disconnecting the wire from the battery,which supplies power to the WUR I couldn't find the immobiliser 12v wire,I will have to recheck