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Author Topic: Marks Mk1 XR2  (Read 3906 times)
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Taps
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« on: November 21, 2008, 02:54:17 PM »



Well it left Mark and arrived at mine yesterday afternoon, not running.

As its a pain in the arse to keep pushing motors about I decided first job was to get it running, Mark had got it to start but it wouldn't keep running, it wouldn't start at all for me  Cheesy.

So first job, check spark which was good, check fuel which weren't good, on operating the accelerator pump on the carb very little fuel was coming out the jet. so first job was to take the fuel pipe off to see if there was any coming out the pump which there was, next top off the carb to see what was going on in there.



As you can see not much petrol in there, a strip down and clean every thing out job. The carb gasket was fubar in fact a part of it was missing altogether  Cheesy





Not something you can get off the shelf and certainly not from Fords these days so in good Blue Peter fashion although not a Kellogg's box  Grin I made a replacement



better then nothing and will more then do until a proper one can be sourced

All put back together and we try staring it again  Grin
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« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2008, 03:18:04 PM »

Few pops and splutters and that was all, so back to the carb again, plenty coming out the accelerator pump jet this time so not a shortage of fuel so what? took the top off again and what should have been a bowel of petrol was more water then petrol, cleaned it all out and put carb back together.

Cars been stood for a long time with a near if not empty petrol tank, petrol tanks left like this condensate and that condensation ends up in the bottom of the tank as water, this builds up and that's where what I found in the carb has come from so next job was to drain the tank. Mark had put some fresh petrol in it but as you can see in the bucket



What came out of the tank was more ditch water then petrol  Grin, fuel lines were blown through, well were attempted to be blown through, main fuel line seemed to be blocked somewhere, so starting at the front each pipe was disconnected  and blown through, all where clear until we came to the tank sender unit, it became clear that although not fully blocked the fuel pick up was very close to being so.

So next job was to remove the tank sender unit, easy to do a a Mk1 fiesta as you can get it out without removing the tank, on removal you could easy see the problem



Pick up filter blocked, a good clean and it was ready to go back on



Every thing put back and connected up, 10 litres of fresh fuel and we have lift off



Just requires setting up and its a job off the list
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2008, 03:23:59 PM »

While underneath sorting the fuel systems it was clear theres a few more jobs to be done, both front outer driveshaft CV boots split, rad peeing out water which we knew about, off side rear brake cylinders been leaking, small hole in the floor needs welding up which we also knew about, will see what else will need shorting.
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« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2008, 03:54:45 PM »

While I think about it  Grin

Water in Fuel

You all probably know water and petrol don't mix, petrol floats on water so the water ends up in the bottom of the fuel tank, the pick up pipe picks petrol up from................... yep the bottom of the tank, so water will end up being pumped up into your carb or fuel injection system, water does not burn  Grin get enough of it and it will kill your engine dead, small amounts getting through and it will run like a bag of shite until it clears and your back on pure petrol.

There is a product on the market called Dry Fuel to over come the above, one I use is made by Wynns but dare say there are other makes of it out there.



How does it work?

It basically breaks down the molecules of the two so they will mix, instead of one or the other going through a mixture of both go through together as its a mixture there's still enough of the petrol in the mix to keep the engine running as it should
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mark
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« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2008, 04:48:30 PM »

wow you dont hang about lol
so nice to no it wasent anything to bad
did you see my reply about the rad on the other thread?

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« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2008, 07:33:41 PM »

Great to see a result for you Mark, and good informative info as always Tapper, hope to see this motor back up and running in the very near future  Cool
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« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2008, 03:55:57 AM »

did you see my reply about the rad on the other thread?

Just read it  Grin this one nearly runs out as fast as you put it in  Cheesy
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« Reply #7 on: November 22, 2008, 11:05:28 AM »

Your weldings done







Rest of the parts should be with me Monday
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« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2008, 04:02:41 PM »

Good old Rob, another old Ford brought back to life.
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« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2008, 05:56:07 PM »

I think he should be known as Dr Taps!
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« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2008, 05:17:26 PM »

thanx for the call and update m8 what happend to ya phone tho it cut out?
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« Reply #11 on: November 29, 2008, 05:23:58 PM »

Out there in the sticks they havent got the most up to date mobiles yet Mark, his is green with Heinz written on the side, he must have gone out of range, IE the bit of string ran out  laugh laugh laugh
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« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2008, 02:32:59 PM »

Right, after my camera went tits up and I couldn't get the photos out of it I've finally managed to get them so will carry on  Grin

Rad, one Mark got was the same size but had an important part missing



ie the front flange that the fan mounts to





So the top rails were cut off the old rad



Modified and spot welded onto the new rad, then the fan was also modified and fitted



then the rad put back in

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« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2008, 02:37:14 PM »

Next both front drive shafts CV outer boots were split





Both removed and new ones fitted





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« Reply #14 on: December 02, 2008, 02:46:15 PM »

Front brakes were all rusted up



So have been stripped, all cleaned up and refitted.

Rear brakes stripped down.









N/S/R brake cylinder was weeping fluid and O/S/R brake cylinder was peeing it out, due to everything on the rear being seized up the lot was stripped off all freed and cleaned, new rear cylinders fit, new rear brake pipe made up and fitted to the O/S/R as the old one snapped on removing from the cylinder, all re built and system bled.

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« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2008, 03:04:24 PM »

Front drivers side engine mount

Basically had fell apart. Now the idiot at Fords who designed this part plainly design it to be fitted to the engine before it went in the car, gave no thought for how the hell you got one off and a new one back on with the engine in the car, hence the label Idiot/Idiots if its down to more then one  Grin.

IF any real thought had been given to this part they would have made into the inner wing a access hole for removal of the bolt that goes through the mount into the mount plate on the engine, but no, probably to taxing for there narrow minded brains to comprehend that one hole would make all the difference, having said that on later models they did in fact put such a hole and only guessing here but most likely down to some mechanic phoning up and saying what fecking idiot designed this why ain't ya put a hole in the inner wing so I could get at the bolt Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy

Anyway I digress  Grin so engine mount, you can just about get it out with the engine in although getting a new one back with the engine in is near on impossible, not that it matters as you can get the mount anymore from anywhere  Cheesy

Mark had got a fiesta mount from Ford but as you can see in this pic [New one on the right]



There's a slight difference  Grin

How I over come this your have to wait and see but I wont be phoning Fords  Grin
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« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2008, 03:20:22 PM »

That mount looks like a 950cc / 1.1 / 1.3 OHV one. You can use it on the 1.6 Kent engines in the XR2 if you bung a 10mm spacer on top.  Cheaper than getting a go faster one from Burtons. and a trick used many a time on conversions I've seen over the years. The XR mount was taller due to the 1.6 block being 10mm taller than the 1.3 etc. If you fit the engine without the spacer using the 1.3 mount, the gearbox hits the tie bar when you give it the beans pulling away (seen one done that way with the engine pissed too!).

Knowing our Taps he's come up with a clever alternative to a 10mm spacer!
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'10 (10 plate) Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 TDCi (mine)
'07 (57 plate) Megane 1.9 DCI 130 Privilege (girlfriends)
'84 (B plate)  Sierra 3 door 24v 4x4 (mine forever!!)
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« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2008, 03:33:42 PM »


Knowing our Taps he's come up with a clever alternative to a 10mm spacer!

I will  Grin as a 10mm spacer wont cut the mustard with that mount, theres 3 mounts you could get, the one in the pic is the smallest of the lot

Heres the other 2 against the proper mount, going back a bit here was 2004 when I looked into it  Grin

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« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2008, 03:36:56 PM »

Mate of mine swapped his 1.3 Supersport for a 1760cc Burton lump when I was an apprentice and I made up the adapters for him at lunchtime at work. Went like stink but he left standard 1.3 brakes on it LOL.
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'10 (10 plate) Mondeo Titanium X Sport 2.0 TDCi (mine)
'07 (57 plate) Megane 1.9 DCI 130 Privilege (girlfriends)
'84 (B plate)  Sierra 3 door 24v 4x4 (mine forever!!)
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« Reply #19 on: December 02, 2008, 03:42:37 PM »

This is the way with the other mount



The 3 mount types again no longer available

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